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L&LSR Reminiscenses |
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A return trip to Burtonport by H C Casserley, from The Railway Magazine, May 1938. With photos taken on the trip. Passages from Thorough Guide Series, Ireland (Part I), published 1909. This page contains extensive descriptions of touring through north-west Donegal soon after the turn of the century as well as comments on the railway itself. |
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The Londonderry and Lough Swilly Railway from The Railway Magazine, May 1938. by H C Casserley (All photographs copyright Richard Casserley.) A short account of a trip to Burtonport may prove of interest to any reader who contemplates taking a trip over this line whilst the opportunity exists. In company with a friend we duly arrived at Letterkenny shortly after 5pm one evening from Strabane; this is necessary to avoid having to travel by bus between Letterkenny and Londonderry, owing to there being only one through train on the Lough Swilly line. Except on certain fair days, indeed , it is not possible to do the return trip from Letterkenny to Burtonport in a single day; there are only two trains each way, and the second one back leaves before the arrival of the first one outwards. We found our train, consisting of one coach and several vans, waiting at Letterkenny, and a brief inspection of the accommodation simply confirmed my resolved intention of travelling first class. The return first class fare from Letterkenny to Burtonport is 9s 5d, about three shillings more than third, and considering that one is going to spend at least seven hours on the journey, it is emphatically worth the difference. The first class, in addition to its privacy, is nively upholstered and quite comfortable, but the third has bare wooden seats.
Down at the shed was 4-6-0 tank No. 3 ready to take our train, and 4-6-2 tank No. 10 was inside. In due course we started off, a fine sunny evening, and were soon climbing towards the hills.
The scenery over the route is very wild and fine, something after the style of the northernmost stretch of the old Highland Railway. In places one does not see a cottage or sign of human habitation for miles.
There is very little passenger traffic, but quite a fair amount of goods, which took some time to unload at each station, this, added to various shunting movements to detach vans caused us to be half-an-hour late arriving at Burtonport, the time being then 9.30 pm.
Visitors being few and far between at this veritable "back of beyond", our arrival caused some little upheaval, but Sweeney's Hotel – the one and only – at Burtonport, did us very well, and the place was very comfortable.
The following morning we caught the 8.30 am train back, and found that the 4-8-0 tender engine, No. 12, was to take our train. She proved to be a fine puller and an excellent steamer, judging from the number of times the safety valves kept blowing off. It seems strange that the sister engine, No. 11, has been scrapped.
We continued to Londonderry, the 4-8-0 working throughout. Much time was lost in shunting at intermediate stations, and we did not get into Londonderry until 2.15 pm, nearly six hours' journey.
We arrived with a tremendous train, two passenger coaches and about twenty vans of various sorts, but the engine seemed to have no difficulty in handling it; 4-6-2 tank No. 14 was at Letterkenny waiting to take the mid-day train to Burtonport. At Tooban Junction two more 4-6-2 tanks were shunting, but we were unable to get out owing to the solicitous guard having locked us in to prevent unauthorised gate-crashers. Still, one cannot have it all ways. As regards the rest of the locomotive stock, Nos. 2, 6, and 15 were at Pennyburn shed in working order, and Nos. 1 and 7 out of traffic, not having been used for some time, Nos. 4 and 5 were under repair in the works,
and Nos. 13 and 17 (the 0-6-0 tank) derelict outside, apparently withdrawn; 4-6-0 No. 3 took a train out to Buncrana, and the remaining engine,
No. 16, was in store in the terminal station at Londonderry, newly painted. In spite of rumours to the contrary, there was no indication that the line will be closed at present; indeed, the railway appears to be the only practical means of communication with Burtonport, such roads as there are being extremely poor. |
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Passages from Thorough Guide Series (We have included several extracts from this tourist guide, now over 90 years old, to give a flavour of travel in Co. Donegal when the Letterkenny and Burtonport Extension Railway had just been built. As well as describing the routes from Derry and Letterkenny etc., it also picks out places and sights which it regarded as of interest to the traveller of the period. In many ways it gives a remarkable insight into contemporary attitudes to the "natives" of Co. Donegal as well as what was regarded as "quaint" and entertaining. Where possible, within the limits of HTML, we have retained the original look of the typesetting, spelling and punctuation. Prices are in pounds sterling, shillings and pence; distances are in both Irish and English miles [there is no consistency in the text!]; and the guide mistakenly puts the railway's gauge as 4 inches wider than it actually was.) Londonderry Railway Stations: Great Northern (west side of river, end of Foyle St.) for Enniskillen, Belfast, Dublin, etc.; Midland (Northern Counties Com.) (Mill St., east side of river) for Portrush and Belfast, also for Strabane and S. and W. Donegal; Londonderry and Lough Swilly (narrow gauge), 1 m. from Ship Quay, by Strand Road (tram). Tram. from G.N. Station to Londonderry and Lough Swilly Station along Foyle St. and Strand Road (1½ m.; 1d.). Buses (1d. outside, 2d. inside) between Ship Quay and all the stations. Ferry (1d.) from Middle Quay to Waterside, close to Northern Counties Station. Every ten minutes (7.50 a.m. to 6.40 p.m.). Hotels* ('buses from all): Imperial (C.T.), Bishop St., pleasant and quietly situated (bed and att. from 3s. 6d.; bkfst., 1s. 6d. to 2s. 6d.); City (rebuilt), Foyle St.; Ulster, Guildhall St. (C.T.; bed and att., 3s. to 5s.; bkfst., 1s. 9d. to 2s. 6d.; 8s. 6d. a day for 3 days; 52s. 6d. a week); Northern Counties (Auto, pit garage), Ship Quay Place; Metropole, Foyle St.; Gowdie's Temp., Foyle St., in the busy part of the town; Roddy's, Bishop St.; Criterion (C.T.), Foyle St., Diamond Temp. (C.T.). (* Since our last edition several of the hotels have been rebuilt, notably the City, which can be recommended as a commodious, comfortble, and well-managed house.) Cafés: City Temperance, bottom of Ship Quay St. (excellent); Criterion (C.T.), Foyle St. Post Office (close to Queen's Quay; open always). Chief despatches (Belfast) 5.40 a.m., (Dublin) 7 a.m., 3.10., 9 p.m., (England) 3.10, 3.35, 4.30, and 9 p.m., (Scotland) 5.20 and 6.15 p.m. Chief deliveries (England and Scotland) 7, 10.35, 11.30 a.m., 3.30 p.m., (Belfast and Dublin) 7 a.m., 3.30 p.m. Sunday, 8 a.m. Tel. Office always open. Theatre ("Opera House"), Carlisle Road, E 5. Cab Fares: From stations, 6d (one or two persons); by time, 1s. 6d. first hour; 1s. each succeeding one. Steamers to Heysham (Midland), Mondays and Thursdays, 5 p.m.; Greenock and Glasgow (Burns and Laird), daily, 6.30 p.m. (12s. 6d.); Liverpool, Wednesdas and Saturdays, about 3 p.m. (12s. 6d.); Fleetwood (L. & N. W. and L. & Y. R.). Tuesdays and Fridays, 4 p.m.; Moville, Mondays, Wednesdays, Thursdays, and Saturdays, 3.30 p.m.; London (Clyde S. Co.), daily; America (Anchor Line), Saturday, by tender, at 4 p.m. Pop. 39,892. The City of Londonderry, which has grown round the site of the ancient Abbey founded here by St. Columba in A.D. 546 and burnt by the Danes in 783, is strikingly situated on an eminence which is half surrounded by the Foyle, here a wide tidal river. Neat and compact, without any great architectural pretensions, it may easily be explored by the tourist in two or three hours. The word "Derry" ("Oak-grove"), by which the city is generally known throughout the north of Ireland, acquired the prefix "London" in the time of James I., the city having been rebuilt mainly by the assistance of a company of London merchants, still existing as the London Irish Society, after its destruction by the O'Neills. On the 18th December, 1688, the famous siege began, which lasted till the 12th August 1689. Throughout that period the inhabitants defended the city with unflagging resolution against the army of James II. A barrier or "boom" was placed across the Foyle below the town to prevent relief by sea. The Governor of the town, at the beginning of the siege, was Colonel Lundy, who turned traitor and made several attempts to admit the enemy. Foiled in these attempts, and finding his life in danger from the indignation of the garrison, he made his escape in the dress of a porter. It was then that the Rev. George Walker essayed the task ahich he so nobly performed – that of sustaining the courage of his fellow-citizens through all the hardships and privations entailed by the protracted siege. At length, when the actual siege had lasted 105 days, the "Mountjoy", a merchant-man of the Orange fleet, succeeded in breaking through the boom and relieving the city. It is stated that 2,300 of the citizens perished during the siege. The anniversaries of the closing of the gate (Dec. 18th) and of the relief of the city are still observed. The city is easily seen by making the circuit of the walls, which were built in 1617-18 at a cost of £8,500 (a large sum then). Visitors at the City, Ulster, or Northern Counties Hotels should begin at the Ship Quay Gate, and those staying at the Imperial or Roddy's at Bishop's Gate. In coming from the Northern Counties Station, the chief part of the city is reached by crossing Carlisle Bridge, a fine but unpicturesque iron lattice structure nearly ¼ mile long. It was opened by the Earl of Carlisle in 1863, and cost over £100,000. Its heavy appearance is accounted for by the fact that underneath the carriage-way there is a railway, connecting the three lines – Gt. Northern, Northern Counties, and Donegal. The finest public buildings cluster round Ship Quay, where is a handsome Town Hall in the approved Gothic style, with a lofty clock tower. Barring the tower, this was destroyed by fire on Easter Sunday 1908, but is about to be restored. Close by are the Custom House, the Post Office, and the Harbour Offices. Mounting the walls over the Gate from the bottom of Ship Quay Street, near the quay, and going with the sun, we cross Market Street, on the level. The large building with the handsome facade on the left is St. Columb's Temperance Hall, and on the right is the Y.M.C.A. Then ascending, we cross the end of Ferry Quay Street by the New Gate, under which comes the main thoroughfare from the bridge to the centre of the town. A little further (after crossing London Street), in passing the Cathedral on the right, we may notice in the east angle of the graveyard a small gray obelisk, with pedestal, erected on a mound, and commemorating the "illustrious men who distinguished themselves in the siege," and "other eminent ciitizens." The bodies were originally buried within the cathedral, but were exhumed during alterations in 1861 and "reverently re-interred in the north aisle" by the "Apprentice Boys." Bending to the right at the Ferry Bastion we come to Bishop's Gate, which spans Bishop Street, so called from the Bishop's Palace close at hand (W. side of street). This gate was rebuilt in 1789, and is a triumphal arch in memory of William III. Here it is best to descend to the street, and passing on the right the Court House, a classic building with Ionic facade, surmounted by the royal arms and emblematic figures of Justice and Mercy, to turn up St. Columb's Court to the Cathedral of St. Columb. Remounting the wall at the Bishop's Gate, we come to the Double Bastion, which contains the "great gun" of the siege, "Roaring Meg." A hundred yards further stands Walker's Monument, a massive Doric column 90 feet high, with a colossal figure of the hero of the siege, Bible in hand, on the top. Round the pedestal are the names of other gallant "defenders": "Mitchelburne, Baker, Murray, Cairnes, Leake, Browning." There is a fine view from the gallery at the top of the tower. We read in a local guide-book that the sword fell from the statue on the night upon which the R.C. Emancipation Bill was passed. The fine church, conspicuous some distance N.W. of this part of the wall, is the R.C. Cathedral of St. Eugene. A grand spire has just been added. It has beautifully carved centre and side altar-pieces. Nothing on the right the new Apprentice Boys' Hall, a Gothic castellated building, we next pass the Presbyterian Meeting House and come to Butcher's Gate, just beyond which is the Freemasons' Hall – plain classical in style. South of the town is a large showground with pavilion. Butcher's Gate forms the communication between the Diamond and the low western part of the town outside the walls. A greater contrast than that afforded by the trim neatness of the part within the walls and the squalid untidiness without, on this side, there could not be. St. Columb's Well, near at hand, is marked by a pump, but it is not worth visiting. Descend and pass along Butcher Street to the Diamond, as the square which forms the nucleus of the city is called. Its centre is occupied by the Government School of Art, formerly the Town Hall, on which the Arms of the City – a ship – may be noticed. On the north side, looking down Ship Quay Street, there is a bronze statue of Sir Rob. Alex. Ferguson (1796-1860), who represented Derry in Parliament for 30 years. The statue is locally called the "Black Man." A walk as far as the Magee Presbyterian College, about a mile north of the town, by the Strand Road, and overlooking the Foyle, may be recommended. The college is called after the donor, Mrs. Magee of Dublin, and cost £20,000, its object being the training of Presbyterian ministers for Ireland. A substantial Technical School has been erected in Strand Road on left half-way towards Swilly Railway Station. Grianan of Aileach (5½ miles W. of the city, 803 ft.). This is a bare round hill, surmounted by a supposed palace of prehistoric kings of Ireland, and has lately been restored by a local gentleman, Dr. Bernard, to what was, as far as could be judged, its original form. Antiquity apart, the drive or walk (rather dull) may be taken for the sake of the finely comprehensive view of Lough Swilly, the Donegal mountains, and Lough Foyle commanded by the hill, which is quite isolated. A car may be taken to within ¾ mile of the summit. * A couple of miles or so may be saved by using the Lough Swilly railway as far as Bridge End Station (5 miles from Derry; small pub. ho.). From the quay cross Waterloo Place and go up William Street and Creggan Street, passing St. Eugene's R.C. Cathedral, noticed in the view from the walls. In about two miles, on breasting a rise, the hill and tower come into view. The road is nearly straight till (4½ miles) you come to a meeting of five ways at two cottages. Hence take the rough (left-front) road and make direct for the top. The enclosure (as restored) is circular, 76 ft. in diameter inside, and with walls 16 ft. high, leaning slightly inwards from their external base, and divided into three – in places four – tiers, circus-fashion, inside. These tiers are connected by steps, and the lowest of them is pierced for some distance by unlighted galleries. The width at the top is reduced to less than 2 feet. There is only one entrance. The view comprises a great part of Lough Swilly, with the mountains of Donegal – prominent amongst them the double-crested Errigal – rising to a height of nearly 2,500 feet. Between Lough Swilly and Lough Foyle, Slieve Snaght is the chief height. Derry is hidden, but the windings of the Foyle, south of it, are well seen. the foreground generally is bare, but the valley between Derry and Lough Swilly is fertile and populous. The completion of two of Mr Balfour's Light Railways from Donegal to Killybegs, and from Stranorlar to Glenties, has greatly facilitated access to Donegal. The Londonderry and Lough Swilly railway has also been extended to Carndonagh, thus tapping the interesting parts of the Inishowen peninsula, and what is still more important the line has also been extended to the north-west seaboard at Burton Port via Creeslough and Gweedore. Lough Swilly Railway from Derry to Letterkenny, 25 miles, about 4 trains a day in one-and-a-third to one-and-a-half hours; 3s. 4d., 2s. 4d., 1s. 6d. Now also from Letterkenny to Burton Port vid Creeslough, Dunfanaghy Road and Gweedore. 3 trains a day (1 Sun.). Fares from Derry to Creeslough, 6s. 10d., 5s., 3s. 3d.; Dunfanaghy Road, 7s., 5s. 1d., 3s. 4d.; Gweedore, 9s 8d., 7s. 1d., 4s. 8d.; and Burton Port, 11s 8d., 8s. 7d., 5s. 8d. The Londonderry Station is at the Graving Dock, 1 mile from Ship Quay along Strand Road (tram to all trains from G.N. Station and Carlisle Bridge, 1d.). This long little line, which belongs to the same company as the Buncrana line, and having a gauge of only 3 ft 4in., embraces in its sinuous course every class of scenery – pastoral, lake, river, and mountains – and affords to tourists a convenient access to the highlands and coast-line of North-west Donegal. Derry to Letterkenny. At first the line skirts the river, of which there is a very pretty view up to the "boom". Soon, however, we turn inland, proceeding along a wide flax-growing valley with the Inishowen hills on the right, and, as we approach (4 miles) Bridgend Station, the Grianan of Aileach crowning a round hill on the left. Then at Junction (6 miles) the Buncrana branch diverges, and a little further we reach the side of Lough Swilly. Far away on the other side of Dooish and Errigal are in view – the former a single peak, the latter one of three with a little notch on its summit. Close at hand, on the right, is a rude watch-tower. Aileach continues to be conspicuous for some time. Then at Carrowen Station (9 miles) the line enters a rough limestone tract, passing on the left another tower, and commanding a fine view across Lough Swilly to Ramelton, with the straight-backed Muckish, the chief landmark of Northern Donegal, conspicuous in the far distance. From Newtown Cunningham (12 miles) there is a short cut by road and ferry to Ramelton. Fort Stewart Ferry. Persons taking this route must hire or walk to the ferry (2 miles), which is a mile wide, and then, unless they have previously ordered a car to meet them, walk another 3 miles for Ramelton. Fort Stewart (1 mile north of the ferry) was built nearly two centuries ago. Fort Stewart House is close to the ferry, and the ruins of Killydonnel Abbey 1 mile south on the road to Letterkenny. Keeping inland, we now pass (16 miles) Sallybrook and (17 miles) Manor Cunningham, where Errigal again comes into view. Then, while tickets are being collected at Pluck (21 miles), we may notice an upright stone on the crest of a field on the right. Its antiquity is attested by the fact that stone vessels have been dug up beneath or around it. It is much appreciated by the cattle, and the natives confuse its use with its origin. Hence, doubling the south end of the lough, we look down it to the Inishowen mountains, and soon see Letterkenny on the hill-side in front of us. The station is a mile short of the hotels. Letterkenny Tourist Tickets:- From Dublin, 49s., 36s. 6d., 23s. 9d.,; from Belfast 23s. 6d., 18s. 4d., 13s. 6d. Railway Stations:- Co. Donegal and Strabane (opened January 1909) both ½ mile from town. Hotels:- Hegarty's (C.T.), McCarry's (Auto., C.T.), Orr's Temp. Hiring Distances (Irish miles): Ramelton, 7; Rathmullan, 12; Kilmacrenan, 6; Dunfanaghy, 18; Gweedore (direct), 22, by Gartan Lough 26, by Dunfanaghy 34; Gartan Lough (Church Hill), 8; Glenties, 22; Dungloe, 26; Strabane, 14; Stranorlar, 11. Post Office:- Open, 7-8; Sun, 7-10 a.m., Desp. abt. 7.30 a.m.; abt. *6.0; Del. *7 a.m.; *3.0, 8.30 p.m. *Sun. also (del. to callers). Tel. Off., 8-8; Sun. 9-10 a.m. Mail-cars:- To Ramelton (1s.), Rathmullan (2s.), Milford (2s.), Portsalon and Carrigart (3s. 6d.), 6.30 a.m..; Dunfanaghy (2s. 6d.) and Gweedore (6s 6d.), 6.30 a.m.; Church Hill (1s. 6d., ret. 2s 6d.), 6.35 a.m. Letterkenny, as the name implies (Leitr, a "slope"), stands on the slope of a hill. It consists of one long street, rising steeply from the north bank of the Swilly, just where the valley has expanded into a wide and rather bare strath. In the centre is a square with a small clock-tower, but by far the most important building is the County Asylum, a little way up the Dunfanaghy road. The town is fairly busy and thriving, though its local importance has somewhat suffered since the railway brought Londonderry within easy business reach. It is also the chief postal centre of the district. There is nothing in Letterkenny itself to detain the tourist, but two or three days may be well spent in making excursions – to Ramelton, Rathmullan, Milford, and Mulroy Bay; to Gartan Lough (Church Hill), and Glen Veagh. A most interesting drive is to Glen Veagh Bridge, on the Gweedore road; thence along Lough Veagh and up the glen to the top of the pass, where the Dungloe road is joined. Letterkenny to Church Hill (10 English miles). As this route coincides with the rail the road description must suffice for both. Quitting the town, passing old town station, by the steep hill that drops to the Swilly we follow for several miles the green, well-wooded valley of that river, passing on the right (1 mile) the demesne of Ballymacool, and beyond it, on the opposite side, Rockhill. A little further, beside the road, are the ruined church and graveyard of Conwal, the mother church of Letterkenny. In the stream close by the natives wash their feet before entering Letterkenny to avoid quarrelling with their neighbours before returning. There is also a Holy Well. Then (3 miles) we pass the Glebe House of Letterkenny, a white square building opposite a pretty part of the river. A couple of miles further, just pass New Mills Station, the road to Fintown and Glenties goes off on the left, crossing the river near a small licensed house. Up to this point there is also a road along the sought side of the river. The Fintown road follows the Swilly almost to its source, beyond which it crosses a wild district and attains a height of 800 feet, descending to Lough Finn, 1 mile short of Fintown Station on the Stranorlar and Glenties line. Distances:- Letterkenny to Fintown Inn, 19 English miles; Glenties, 28 miles. The route is very little used. Our road, now passing Fox Hall (station), crosses the line and bears to the right and ascends for half a mile, soon affording a wide view in front, in which Errigal appears, and then a strip of Muckish. The again, crossing the line, on the right is the little hamlet of Temple Douglas, and in front a new National School and what was once a "model farm". Then the hilly route to Dungloe goes off on the left. To the Poisoned Glen, Doochary Bridge, &c. The road, a good one, ascends for some miles and then drops to the level of Gartan Lough, of which a good view is afforded. On the far side of it is the Glenveagh property, purchased many years ago by the late Mr Adair, and the unhappy scene of one of Ireland's tragedies. The tenants were dissatisfied with their landlord, and a couple of his agents were murdered. The murderers were not given up, and the whole glen was evicted, probably to the ultimate advantage of its inhabitants. "They'll live to bless instead of curse," was the remark made to the writer by one who has elsewhere been put down as a "home ruler" whom one would not "like to meet in a lonely road." The district is picturesque but incapable of supporting anything beyond the scantiest population. At 12 English miles from Letterkenny we come to the hamlet of Glendowan, with a very quaint but clean little licensed house and a P.O. Then, after crossing the strath at the south of Gartan Lough, a long ascent up a wild uninhabited valley of the Glendowan mountains takes us to the col (850 ft.) of the main valley of Donegal, which we strike at right angles, 4 miles from Glendowan. To the right there opens out a fine view down into the narrow trough in which lies Lough Veagh, with Lough Veagh Castle by its side, and a desolate strath northwards extending to Len Lough and the sea beyond it; to the left our own road bends and maintains a level for some distance. * A rough cart-track (now impassable from land-slides) drops steeply to about one mile south-west from the head of Lough Veagh. This is erroneously marked on the maps as a new road, and so described in our previous edition. Thence, however, there is a private road to Glenveagh Bridge. To reach the head of the Poisoned Glen from the point at which the roads meet, continue along the chief road towards Dungloe for ¾ mile, and then leave it by a short cart-track on right that leads to a quarry from which stuff for mending the road is got. Here there is a small stream, and by following it up at right angles to the road you have left you will in from 20 to 30 minutes reach a rocky gap (1,400 ft.) in the Derryveagh range, from which the descent into the Poisoned Glen is very steep but practicable. The walking throughout is detestable – heath, bog, and stones – but the view from the gap down into the glen itself with the Dunlewy and Nacung Loughs beyond, and Errigal rising to a peak on the right of them, is very striking. Wise folk will go no further. The scramble down is obvious and, on the right, safe, and in 3 English miles you will reach Dunlewy church, whence it is 5½ more English miles by road to Gweedore Hotel. Continuation of road to Doochary Bridge. A few hundred yards beyond the divergence for the Poisoned Glen we reach the highest point of the col (850 ft.) and get a good view past Lough Barra into the Gweebarra valley. Hence it is 8½ English miles to Doochary Bridge, 18½ to Glenties, and 16½ to Dungloe. Our road now makes a smart ascent to a height of about 500 feet, and from it, as also from the train, we have one of the finest views on the route – the length of the Lannan valley, brown, shaggy, and dotted with rocks and small holdings, thoroughly characteristic of the half-wild regions of Donegal. Then another steep fall and rise brings us to Church Hill (the station is 1¾ miles to the east; Wilkin's Hotel, C.T.; St Columb's, C.T.) a conspicuous village in which the chief buildings are a church with a square tower. From the village the road descends a long hill, with pretty glimpses of Gartan Lough through the trees, among which (some years ago) a storm wrought great havoc, to a bridge at the foot of the lough. On the shore of the lough is anew hotel, the St. Columb (well spoken of; fishing). A good road strikes off to the left a little way down this hill and, after affording a pretty view across the lough with Muckish in the background, joins in 2 English miles the road to the Poisoned Glen and Dungloe a mile short of Glendowan hamlet. This makes a circular drive of about 21 miles from Letterkenny. Gartan Lough measures about 3 miles by 1. On its east side, among pleasant woods, is the demesne of Belleville. From the opposite shore the moorland rises gradually to the Glendoan hills and hereabouts is the Glenveagh district. Our road, after crossing the bridge, turns to the right up a shallow pass, after breasting which it looks down on Lough Akibbon to the left. This is almost an extension of Gartan Lough, a mile long, and narrow. On the far side of it, some way up the hill, are he ruins of a chapel, in which the story goes that St. Columba was born in 520 A.D. He was educated at the Monastery of Clonade, leaving as an exile to Iona in 564. Beyond the lough we bend to the left, and, passing a poor little licensed house, make a long ascent and enter, 4½ miles from Church Hill, the direct road from Letterkenny to Gweedore, at a point 12½ miles from Letterkenny. Turning to the left the road descends, with a fine view of Muckish in front, to Glenveagh Bridge (15 English miles), close to which is a small police-barrack. Looking to the left we have a full-length view of Lough Veagh reposing in a deep trough with its modern castle disproportionately large. The Glenveagh Valley divides the granite tract of the "Rosses" on its west from the main Silurian districts of the county. Lough Veagh. The road skirting the lough is private and kept up by its owner, Mrs. Adair, who, however, admits tourists (driving and on foot) by ticket obtained at the lodge gate. Motors go to a shelter (1½ miles) just short of the Castle. Horsed vehicles, etc., can proceed to some cottages 1 mile beyond the head of the lough passing (1¾ miles) through the yard of Glenveagh Castle, a modern building with late additions, which can hardly be said to add to the beauty of the scene. Lough Veagh, the most decided and striking in style of all the Donegal lakes, occupies a deep and narrow defile nearly 4 miles long, the valley beyond rising sharply from a height of 150 t0 850 feet in 3 miles. On its east side the steep hill-flank is thickly wooded, a feature being the holly and other evergreens. Close to its far end a still narrower gorge ascends to the left, threaded by a lovely streamlet and flanked by hills on which there is not a bare spot – an oasis, indeed, in the surrounding desert. Thence there is only the cart track (impassable), which in 6½ English miles from Glenveagh Bridge joins the Letterkenny and Dungloe road ¼ mile short of the point at which we turn off for the Poisoned Glen. The prospect in the other (north) direction from Glenveagh Bridge is dreary, the valley expanding into a flat peat-bog. Proceeding, our road again slightly rises through a region of utter desolation till in a short mile it reaches the side of the Calabber river, which it follows 1¼ miles to Calabber Bridge, where are one or two houses. Hence a road, crossing the bridge, ascends to Muckish Gap (2 miles; 800 ft.), whence it descends alongside the Bay river to Falcarragh (Crossroads), 8 English miles. The beautiful but bare peak of Errigal now appears in front, and we have a long ascent of 3-4 miles to a height of nearly 900 feet. From about the top a glimpse on the right of Altan Lough is afforded, lying between Errigal and Aghla More. From the col a fine view opens out in front. Then, skirting Errigal, we descend towards Dunlewy Church and Lough, looking, as the road bends to the right, up the Poisoned Glen on the left. On the south side of the lough, among the woods, is Dunlewy House. Then, passing near the new R.C. Church, with a round tower, we have before us the less interesting Lough Nacung, and 1½ miles short of Gweedore, join the mail-car route from Dunfanaghy. Letterkenny to Dunfanaghy, 21½ miles; Falcarragh, 29; Gortahork, 31½; Gweedore, 39. * In posting along this route, the distances are charged in Irish miles:- 18 to Dunfanaghy, 34 to Gweedore. The railway does not join the route until 1½ miles short of Barnes Gap. Mail-car in 6½ hrs., abt. 6.30 a.m. Fares:- Kilmacrenan, 1s.; Creeslough, 2s.; Dunfanaghy, 2s. 6d.; Falcarragh, 4s.; Gweedore, 5s 6d. Two-horse car to Dunfanaghy in 4 hrs., abt. 1.30 p.m. Fares:- Kilmacrenan, 1s.; Creeslough, 2s.; Dunfanaghy, 2s 6d. Or by train. Fares:- Kilmacrenan, 2s. 2d., 1s. 8d., 1s. 1d.; Creeslough, 3s. 6d., 2s. 8d., 1s. 9d.; Dunfanaghy Road, 3s. 8d., 2s. 9d., 1s. 10d.; Falcarragh, 4s. 10d., 3s. 8d., 2s. 5d.; Gweedore, 6s. 4d., 4s. 9d., 3s. 2d. Tourists should arrange to stay at least half a day in Dunfanaghy for the purpose of visiting Horn Head. Of the conveyances the middle-day car is considerably the more comfortable. A three days' tour may be made by stopping the first night at Dunfanaghy, where there is good accommodation; the second at Gweedore; and thence returning direct by train, or by Church Hill. Between this and the next station, Kilmacrenan, there is nothing of note except the Rock of Doon. The road turns to the left at the top (N. end) of the main street, and begins at once the ascent of a hill nearly two miles long, passing on the right the huge County Asylum. Then, bearing to the left, at the top of the hill we find spread before us a great part of Donegal. Muckish, with its long straight back, is in front; to the left of it Dooish and the notched summit of Errigal. From this point the road descends for a good mile, passing at the bottom a neat little licensed house, opposite which the direct road to Milford, past Ballyarr, the residence of the late Lord George Hill, diverges to the right. Our road crosses a flat and then makes another ascent, from the top of which Kilmacrenan and its wide wide valley come into full view. As we again descend there is a pretty view of Lough Fern away to the right, and the driver will point out a rock to the left of Kilmacrenan, which is close to the Doon Well. Short of Kilmacrenan we cross the Lannan river at a very pretty spot, Just above the bridge the channel splits into two or three serpentine streams, which, below, again gathered into one, rush down a rocky little gorge. Across the bridge the carriage-road sweeps round to the right to avoid the steep pitch of the straight road, and in so doing passes very near the square battlemented tower which, except a fragment or two of out-buildings, forms the solitary remnant of Kilmacrenan Abbey, a foundation ascribed to St. Columb. There are several little licensed houses (Taylor's, C.T.; Longhead's Temp.; McCafferty's, commercial) in Kilmacrenan (6½ English miles). Beyond the village, crossing the stream and passing the church, the rectory and a rookery on the right, we pass in half a mile the divergance of the mountain road by Lough Salt to Glen on the right, and ¼ mile further, on the left the road that leads in 1½ miles to the Rock and Well of Doon. On the Rock of Doon "the O'Donnells were always inaugurated by priests whom they regarded as descended from St. Columb" – Lewis; the Well of Doon, a little south of the rock, is a healing spring still frequented, as a host of crutches and sticks, left as thank-offerings, testify. In front of us as we proceed, the Salt Mountains and the heights of Crockmore present a very broken and rugged surface. A little beyond (9 English miles) the direct road to Gweedore strikes up on the left, and just beyond the divergance we pass, on the right, the large R.C. Chapel or Termon, beyond which the new railway comes alongside and continues to follow the same course through the defile of Barnes Gap (11½ miles), through which we pass between Crockmore on the right, and Stragraddy on the left. A very little constitutes a "gap" in Ireland, but this is more striking than the average. From it the road descends to and crosses the Owencarrow river by New Bridge, the rail bending to the west crosses the river by a fine viaduct 380 yards long and 40 feet high. The secenery about here is very dreary and desolate, but the omnipresent Muckish shows his full stature in front, and looking up the river to the left we see the deep precipice-flanked hollow in which lies Lough Veagh. Muckish now monopolizes the scene until we reach (16½ English miles) Creeslough, the rail passing under the road just before the station is reached. Creeslough (Harkin's Hotel, C.T., a snug little house with four bedrooms, 50s a week; week-end, 12s. 6d. Mail-car to Dunfanaghy, Falcarragh, and Gweedore, about 9 a.m.; van to Dunfanaghy, about 4.45 p.m.; for Carrigart, 3.15, ret. at 7.10; mail-cart and char-a-banc to Rosapenna about 3.10 p.m. on arrival of mail train from Derry, 2s. 6d.) is attractively placed about 150 ft. above sea-level and overlooking Sheep Haven. It is a great fishing and shooting centre, and the nearest station in Rosapenna, Glen, Carrigart, and Mulroy. From Creeslough the road descends, and in two miles, after quitting the railway (at Dunfanaghy Road Station) which turns westt, under Muckish, forks nearly opposite the entrance to the Ards House demesne. The right-hand branch is the shorter of the two, the left-hand the easier. Nothing of special interest occurs until, approaching Dunfanaghy, we skirt the splendid strand of the western arm of Sheep Haven, with the high ground of the Horn Head promontory on the far side of it and the golf links along the shore. A wee snad-hill, only surrounded at high tide, is St. Catherine's Isle. From Dunfanaghy Road Station the rail runs a trifle south of west, passing Lough Agher on the right, and widely around the base of Muckish (2,197 feet) on the left to Falcarragh Station and Fiddler's Bridge where the river Bay is crossed, the road coming in from the left being from Muckish Gap. Thence turning south-west Cashelnagore Station is reached after crossing the Tullaghobegly River. Here a flag-stone quarry is being worked, and there is fine trout fishing in the numerous lakes bordering the line. Turning west again beyond Lough Trusk on the right passing under our road route in 6 miles Gweedore Station is reached. Dunfanaghy Postal Address:- "Dunfanaghy, Co. Donegal." Hotels:- Stewarts Arms (C.T., enlarged, good), at entrance to village; Bed, 2s. 6d.; Bkfst., 2s.; Din., 2s. 6d. to 3s. Hogg's Temp. (small, but good). O'Donnell's. Post Office, open 7-8, Sun. 9-11.10. Del. about 10.10 a.m.; Desp. 2.40 p.m. Tel. Off., 8-8; Sun. 9-10. Mail-Car to Sta. about 2.45 p.m.; to Falcarragh (7 miles., 1s.) and Gweedore (17 miles., 2s. 6d.) 10 a.m. Pop. about 600. Mr. Sterrilt's cars meet all trains at Dunfanaghy Road. (Fare 1s.) Dunfanaghy is not only the most convenient place for breaking the journey between Letterkenny and Gweedore, but is also the place from which to visit Horn Head. The village consists of the regulation long and wide street with a central square or "Diamond." At the far end are a new Presbyterian Church and the Poorhouse. A feature of the place is its splendid stretch of sand, affording a good bathe when the tide is up. There is an excellent golf-ground with 18 holes close to the village. Horn Head (626 ft.). This is the highest headland in the North of Ireland, and one of the finest not only in Ireland but also in the British Isles. A walk around the edge of it may be made to occupy a whole day, and no tourist should devote less than half a day to it, the distance from Dunfanaghy to the extreme point being over 3½ miles by drivable road and nearly one on foot, and the circuit thence back again bringing the total to 9 or 10 miles – rather more if McSwiney's Gun is visited. The Head is at high-tide almost an island, as an inlet of Sheep Haven leaves little more than a sand-heap between itself and the open sea on the west side. The road from Dunfanaghy goes west out of the village and in half a mile drosses this inlet by a heavy bridge of many arches (represented in one Guide-book by the Clifton Suspension Bridge) from the parapet of which the youth of the neighbourhood catch small fry by the score when the tide comes rolling in. Beyond it a gateway introduces us to the demesne of Horn Head House (C. F. Stewart, Esq.), and hence a good road, to be followed to its end, takes us to within 15 minutes' walk of the "Horn" just under the highest point of the promontory (Crockshee, 703 ft.), on which is a building. At first huge sand-heaps, burrowed by rabbit-holes, are on our left; then, fifty minutes after starting, we pass between the two highest points of the promontory, and get a peep at the Bloody Foreland to the left of a billycock-shaped height close to us. The road ends close to a height with a cairn and a pole on it, and from here we see the ruined signal-station and the Head a good half-mile in front of us. A slight descent and a rise leads to them. Keeping near the cliff we get a view of the grand eastern side of the Head, in parts deeply caverned, and mottled with black, white, and ruddy brown tints – the formation being a mixture of diorite, quartzite, and slate. The Signal Station, long susperseded by the telegraph on Tory Island, is a big gaunt ruin. Beyond it the sheer cliff is broken now and again by steep green corries – grass-grown screes – on the steepest of which sheep and goats contentedly graze. No promontory is more fitly named than Horn Head. Its extreme points rise just like two horns 620 feet above the dea, the rock being to a great extent sheer. The view is very extensive – Tory Island and the round hill that sinks to the almost level tract of the Bloody Foreland to the west; Dunaff Head, Malin Head, and the lighthouse-crowned island of Innistrahull to the east; inland the Devil's Backbone, Muckish, the "Aghlas", Errigal, and other heights. Westward from the Head there is a considerable descent, but the cliffs continue high and varied in colour and formation, with inlets and caves, which can be entered by boat in very calm weather. From ¾ to one hour's walk – crossing another high point of the promontory, and again descending – will bring you to a point from which looking back you may see a beautiful natural arch called Templebreaga. From this point you may either return direct to Dunfanaghy, crossing the valley of grass and sand (alongside the cable) that opens on to the delightful little Pollaguill Bay, or you may may continue along the shore and, half a mile beyond the bay, come to a celebrated blow-hole called M'Swiney's Gun, among jet-black rocks. For some cause or other, probably a falling in of rock, this organ of ocean's warfare does not now shoot and roar as it was wont.* South of it stretches another beautiful beach of sand – Tramore Strand – whence you may return to Dunfanaghy in two miles. * We read in an excellent work on the county – "The Donegal Highlands" – that the report of the "gun" is said to have been heard as far as Derry – a distance of 30 miles. The statement possibly emanates from the gentleman who saw America from Croagh Patrick. He does not tell us, however, whether the famous "Barking Meg" on the walls of Derry "suitably responded". In the breeding season the Head is frequented by myriads of sea-birds, including the guillemot, sheldrake, cormorant, sea-parrot, shag, gannet, stormy petrel, and speckled diver. "It is the largest breeding-place for sea-fowl in Ireland." – Hart. The primitive boats called "curraghs" can be seen here. Dunfanaghy to Falcarragh (Crossroads). 7½ miles; and Gweedore, 18. Mail-car abt. 10 a.m.; to Falcarragh, 1s.; Gweedore, 2s. 6d. Private car, 10s. 8d. to 13s 4d. The ordinary driving-road between Dunfanaghy and Falcarragh is from half a mile to a mile longer than the direct one as shown on the Ordnance Survey, because the latter goes over the small intervening hills and the former round them. Starting south from the middle of Dunfanaghy we pass on the right the sandy isthmus that prevents Horn Head being an island. Except the range from Muckish, which now presents its north-west flank, to Errigal there is little to notice in the way of scenery till the highest ground at Falcarragh is reached. In Ray Old Churchyard, however, a little off the road, 2 miles short of Falcarragh, is an old cross of a single stone said to have been brought from Muckish by St. Columb, and in the grounds of Ballyconnell, a mile further (entered from the driving, not the direct road) is the Stone of Cloghineely, fabled to be the block on which is a famous giant of Tory Island, Balor by name, chopped off the head of an equally renowned chieftain of the mainland, MacKineely, because the latter objected to his (Balor's) stealing his still more famous cow, Glasgavlen. Traces of iron-ore on the stone attest the bloody character of the deed. The proper name of the place is, we are told in Dr. Joyce's "Irish Names of Places," Cloch-Chinnfhaelaidh, "the stone of Kinfaela." A little beyond this the road passes a new Catholic chapel and enters Falcarragh [Postal address, "Falcarragh, Letterkenny" (Errigal, M'Ginley's, with beds, a clean and well-kept little house), as it called for distinction's sake by the postal authorities; or Crossroads as it is locally called (mail-car to Gweedore, 1s. 6d., about 11.15; to Dunfanaghy, 1s., about 1.40 p.m.)] is a village, consisting of one wide street, commandingly placed, the mountain-view on the one hand and the sea-view, which includes Tory Island and Horn Head, on the other, being good in themselves and by contrast with each other. From Crossroads to the extreme point of the Bloody Foreland the distance is about 10 miles, and to Gweedore Hotel by the more circuitous road-route under Bloody Foreland Hill, about 16 miles. Neither route is to be recommended, as the scenery is very dreary, the Foreland itself very tame, and the only interesting part of the road-route – that in which it approaches the sea – is most conveniently visited from Gweedore itself. The one special interest would be to the humanitarian, and that the sad one of seeing under what wretched circumstances people can live. There is, however, a wide and fine view from the Foreland Hill (1,038 ft.). A more interesting route is the road (a good one) that crosses the Muckish and Errigal range by Muckish Gap (6 miles, 800 ft.), by which it is about 12 miles to Creeslough and 8 miles to Calabber Bridge on the Letterkenny and Gweedore road. From about 3½ miles along this road Muckish may be ascended in about 1½ hours. There is a beautiful full-length view of the Errigal and Muckish range from the road between one and two miles south of Falcarragh, near the crossing of the Tullaghobegly stream. We have already seen Tory Island on our way to Falcarragh and we may also note the singularly artificial appearance of Horn Head – the two horns becoming very recognizable, while the more westerly one has the look of a leaning tower. Tory Island (from torach – towery) is particularly well seen during the descent of the hill from Crossroads. "In remote times it was a principal stronghold of the Fomorians." We have just alluded to its fabled occupation by giants, and the fancy which accepts the fable needs very little further stretching to see, in the broken rectangular line of cliffs that rises from the eastern end of the island, the ruins of a giant's castle. Possibly the story of the occupation may be traced to this fantastic resemblance. The island has a few inhabitants, fishermen "to trade." The ubiquitous St. Columb is said to have visited it in the sixth century and established his monks; "the foundations of seven little cells can be indentified." – MacDevitt. "It displays very fine rock-forms and the vertical wall at the east end is grand." There is a lighthouse at its north-west point and a Lloyd's signal station. The distance from Crossroads to its south-east end is about 7 miles. The name is probably a shortening of the Irish word signifying "tor," and is very appropriate. No rents or taxes are said to be collected, and there is no doctor, excise officer, or policeman. There is a public-house and a round tower, and the ruins of two churches, but it is without rats, cats, or potato disease. the Wasp gunboat was wrecked on Tory Island, Sept. 22, 1884, with the loss of all but six hands, when sent to collect the rents due. Descending to the Glenna river the road comes in 2½ miles to Gortahork (inn), where we change mail-cart. About here the road for the Foreland goes off. (A prolonged stay at Bedlam is inadvisable; the inn is preferable to that.) Our route goes due south, and is on a gradual ascent for several miles. The chief feature of the view is Errigal, which loses its double peak and rears to the sky a single pyramid becoming more and more graceful as we approach it. It would be difficult to imagine a mountain outline of simpler and at the same time more real beauty. The range is continued towards Muckish by Mackoght ("Wee Errigal"), Aghla Mor, Aghla Beg, and Crocknalaragha. Horn Head, too, preserves its characteristic figure – more strange than beautiful – behind us until we reach the highest point on the road ) abt. 500 ft.), and begin the descent into the Gweedore valley. Some deserted mines are passed on the right, and the country which, so far, has been fairly populous and cultivated all the way from Dunfanaghy becomes barren and unoccupied. In front, as we descend, is the Upper and larger Lough Nacung, and near its farther end the new R.C. Chapel – with a tower modelled after the old round ones – is conspicuous. Approaching the lake we join the direct route from Letterkenny to Gweedore and cross over the new railway; and then, passing a few cabins called Meenacung, and the smaller Lough Nacung, soon enter the courtyard of the Gweedore Hotel. Gweedore Railway Station:- Nearly opposite hotel. Tourist Tickets:- Dublin, 59s. 6d., 43s. 10d., 28s. 9d.; Belfast, 34s., 26s. 2d.; 18s. 6d. Postal Address: "Gweedore, Letterkenny." Tel. Off., 8-8; Sun. 9-10. Hotels:- Gweedore (tel. office, C.T.), bed and att., from 4s.; bfast., 2s. 6d.; din., 3s.; 70s. week; boats, 2s. day and 2s. 6d. per boatman. Doogan's Temp. (near). Conveyances:- Mail-car to Falcarragh (Crossroads) (1s. 6d.), Dunfanaghy (2s. 6d.), Creeslough, Kilmacrenan, and Letterkenny (6s. 6d.), abt. 9.30 a.m.; to Dunbeg abt. 1.50 p.m. Distances:- To Letterkenny direct: Moneymore (Dunlewy Lough), 4 miles; Mellons (Calabber Bridge), 11½; Glenveagh Bridge, 13; Kilmacrenan, 21; Letterkenny, 28. By rail, 63 miles from Londonderry. To Letterkenny vid Dunfanaghy (mail-route): Falcarragh (Crossroads), 10½ miles; Dunfanaghy, 18; Creeslough, 24½; Kilmacrenan, 33; Letterkenny, 40. To Donegal and Stranorlar: Crolly Bridge, 3 miles; Annagary Bridge, 5½; Dungloe, 13; Doochary Bridge, 21; Fintown, 26 (– Stranorlar, by rail 42); Glenties, 35 (Donegal, 52½); Ardara, 41 (Donegal, 58½); Glencolumbkille, 57; Carrick, 63; Killybegs, 73; Donegal, rail, 92; Glenties (rail), 52½. * An element of confusion in the matter of distances is introduced into these routes by some of them being locally reckoned by Irish, others by English miles. Eleven Irish miles make fourteen English. The above are all English, calculated from experience and measurements on large-scale maps. There is compensation for this, from an Irish point of view, as is shown in the following lines: "The miles in this country much longer they be, But that is a saving of time, so you see? For two of our miles being equal to three, Shorterns the road to a great degree." Gweedore as a tourist's and sportsman's resort is the creation of the late Lord George Hill, of Ballyarr, near Letterkenny, who in 1838 bought an estate here of 23,000 acres, and included in his general improvement scheme a church, schools, a post-office, and the Gweedore Hotel. Not only as a territorial landlord, but also on frequent occasions acting as "mine host" at his hotel, his Lordship won golden opinions, and it is pleasant to record that since his death, which occurred in 1879, the hotel has continued to be a well-managed, confortable house. The ascent of Errigal is best made from here. There is sea-bathing at Bunbeg, 4 miles away, and a fresh-water plunge may be enjoyed in the river Clady, just opposite the hotel. The Gweedore river, by the way, is some distance from the hotel, the nearest attainable point on it being Crolly Bridge, 3 miles on the road to Dungloe, or by rail. Fishing: The hotel is an angler's home. There is a fair show of trees and a little cultivation in the immediate neighbourhood of the hotel, but the general character of the surrounding country is heathy moorland rapidly breaking into mountains. The finest scenery is eastward, between the hotel and Lough Veagh, including Errigal, Dunlewy Lough, the Poisoned Glen, and Glen Veagh. Derrybeg, 4 miles; Bunbeg, 6; returning direct to Gweedore, 10. A pleasant little drive or walk. Take the by-road to the right 1½ miles from the hotel. This skirts a barren hill-side and reaches, at Derrybeg, the R.C. chapel just outside which Police-Inspector Martin was murdered by the populace in 1889 while fulfilling his duty in arresting Father McFadyen. The road leads to the Foreland and in 12 miles comes out into the main mail road thrown back near Gortahork, 2½ miles short of Falcarragh. Length of round from Gweedore, 19 miles. Turning for Bunbeg, we pass M'Bride's Temp. Inn (with fair accommodation) and a small licensed house a mile further. Thence to Middletown, where there is a power-loom factory in connection with the Donegal Industrial Fund, Wigmore Street, London. Beyond it a sharp drop to the right past the Protestant Church takes us to the tiny harbour of Bunbeg, where a coasting steamer calls about once a week. The Poisoned Glen – one of the most detestable bog-walks in the kingdom. The way is by the road from the public-house to the Protestant Church (5 miles) and thence up the Cronanty Burn for 2 miles. There is a track for some distance, and then the way is along the level bottom of the glen, to the left of the stream, till we come to the foot of the gap, whence a very steep climb of about 1,000 feet, keeping to the left under the cliffs, takes us to the top of the gap. From this point it is 20 minutes' walk into the road from Doochary Bridge to Letterkenny. Between Gweedore and Burton Port, the terminus of the L. & Lough Swilly Railway, there are but two stations – namely, Crolly Bridge and Dungloe Road. As far as the former the line runs a little west of the road to Dungloe, the station being about ½ mile beyond the bridge. Then, passing under the new direct road to Dungloe, it runs south-west, passing several small lakes, and passes under the road to Burton Port (old Dungloe Road), and in a few miles reaches Dungloe Road Station, and passing under the road again and crossing an arm of Lough Meela turns west, striking the shore about a mile short of Burton Port Station (75 miles from Derry). Gweedore to Dungloe, 10 miles (– Doochary Bridge, 18; Fintown, 23; whence by rail to Glenties, 8½; or Stranorlar, 16). Gweebara Bridge, 18. The construction of a new road between Crolly Bridge and Dungloe, and the substitution of Gweebara Bridge for the old Russell's Ferry, have diverted the old main route to Glenties via Doochary Bridge, and shortened the road-distance to that village by 5 or 6 miles. This may be described as the connecting road between the scenery of North and South Donegal. It traverses a wild, rather featureless inland region, but commands, about Crolly Bridge and when approaching Dungloe, good views, and a fine prospect of the hills south of Loughros Bay from about Gweebarra Bridge. The Fintown route also crosses a picturesque part of the Gweebarra valley at Doochary Bridge. Starting west from Gweedore the road crosses the Clady River (½ mile) by Bryan's Bridge, beyond which it winds round the hills to (3 miles) Crolly Bridge, which spans the Gweedore River. Here is a neat little hotel (Gallagher's, 42s. a week, or, with fishing, 62s.). There is excellent river and loch-fishing (salmon and sea trout), the Gweedore river being within a stone's throw, and Loch Anure 1½ miles away. A carpet factory has recently been established here. Our (new) road passes the latter, and goes on to Dungloe, shortening the old distance by about 3 miles. The hill-sides about here are rough and picturesque and strewn with boulders. A little beyond Crolly Bridge the L. Swilly Railway strikes off to Burton Port. From Crolly Bridge the old route proceeds to (2½ miles) Aunagarry Bridge (pub.-ho.), where it skirts and crosses a muddy little inlet, and then ascends by several little loughs, gaining, as it reaches higher ground, a view of the island of Aran with a little tor lying off its most northerly point. This island may be remembered as the scene of great destitution several years back. One of its highest points is called the Frenchman's Hill. The road then turns west through a little gap, and the next sea-view is across Gweebarra Bay to Dunmore Head (430 ft.) with Crohy Head nearer to hand. Two miles short of Dungloe a road strikes off to Burton Port (Sweeney's; O'Donnell's, C.T.; Boyle's Temp. on Dungloe Road; and plenty of lodgings) (3 miles), whence it is about 2½ miles by boat across to Arab Island. The trout-fishing is excellent. This is the terminus of the railway, and is 5 miles from Dungloe. Mail-car to Fintown 3 p.m. A large herring fishery and kippering establishment has been erected by Messrs. Sayer of London on Edernish Island. Dungloe (Inns: Boyle's, a well-kept and popular house; Sweeney's, C.T. Mr. S. Hanlon, manager of the Rosses Fishery, has also good accommodation for visitors; also Mrs. Doherty. P.O., 7 to 8; del. 9.55; Sun. 11.50. Desp. 3.35; Sun. 1.20. Day-car (2s. 6d.) to Fintown abt. 9.25 a.m.; mail-car (2s.), 3.45; Sun. 1.25 p.m. Pop. 450). The village consists of a broad street rising steeply from the bridge that crosses a little torrent just as it falls into the sea. Except as the centre of the Rosses Fishery, which extends over numberless lakes ("a hundred and one gems" is the local description), the place has no interest. From Dungloe it is 5 miles by a winding shore-road that starts west from the middle of the village to Crohy Head, which commands a grand view of Gweebarra Bay and the many sandy inlets that here pierce the coast. Another way from Dungloe to Glenties (13½ miles) is by Ballynacarrick Ferry (7½ miles), but as there is no boat for carriages this can only be accomplished by pedestrians. The route, too, is dull and the road bad. Dungloe to Doochary Bridge (8 miles) and Fintown Station (13). The road strikes east from the middle of Dungloe and passes a succession of loughs forming part of the Rosses Fishery. It traverses a wild, scantily populated district, with little to occupy the attention, unless it be distant views of Errigal and the Derryveagh heigts until, a mile beyond Nasnahida Lough, it suddenly zigzags down into the valley of the Owenwee, which runs up between the Derryveagh and Glendowan ranges and from its watershed is continued in a direct line by Glen Veagh and the Owencarrow valley to the north coast. This is the main valley of Donegal and, though tame, as remarkable a feature in the configuration of the country as is the course of the Caledonian Canal in Scotland, with which it almost coincides in direction. The valley is crossed at the hamlet of Doochary Bridge (2 pub. ho.), whence, looking up-stream, we have Slieve Snaght (2,240 ft.) on the left and, opposite to it, the Glendowan range, of which the chief peak is Moylenanay. It is a pity that there is no regular inn and posting-house at Doochary Bridge, as it might be a good starting-point for the alternative route to Gweedore by Glenveagh and is, as it were, the southern portal to the wild scenery of the Errigal district. From the bridge it is 8½ miles by road up the valley to the col bwteen the Gweebarra valley and Glen Veagh, and 6½ miles further to Glenveagh Bridge, whence to Gweedore the distance is 13 miles. The road passes (5½ miles) Lough Barra, and from about the col the tourist may make his way to Gweedore by the Poisoned Glen. Lough Veagh is 3 miles further. From Doochary Bridge it is a fine cycling run of 10 miles to Glenties, the first four along the south side of the Gweebarra river; then, turning up-hill the road crosses high ground into the Fintown and Glenties road, which it joins 3 miles short of Glenties. The mountain on the left front, as we descend, is Aghla Mor. Approaching Glenties the monster poorhouse is very conspicuous on the right. Beyond Doochary the road to Fintown, after crossing the bridge, strikes up to the left and continues an up-and-down course until the descent is made to the inn at Fintown, whence it is about half a mile on to the station. Hence to to Stranorlar or Glenties by rail. Lough Finn is a long and narrow lake lying under Aghla Mor (1,961 ft.) which rises from its south side. Its scenery is impressive but lacks variety. The road along its north shore crosses the watershed, and runs alongside the rail to Glenties. Fintown to Letterkenny (18 miles). This is a wearisome road until, about half-way, it enters the cultivated part of the Swilly valley. It is not a tourist route, though it is fairly well spoken of for cyclists. At 6 miles, near the source of the Swilly, it crosses the watershed (780 ft.). To Stranorlar the road winds alongside the Finn all the way. For the first half the country is wild, and the valley flanked by hills of moderate height. Then we come to Cloghan Lodge (10 miles), the seat of Sir W. H. M. Style, to whom a great part of the reclamation of the adjoining country is due. Here the river makes an S bend just before being joined by its tributary the Reelan; also a pretty fall. For the rest of the distance there are roads on both sides of the river. The country is cultivated and pretty. The south road passes through Ballybofey and is the shortest both for that station and Stranorlar. The road passes south throught the village and up a short stiff ascent, followed by successive rises and falls between Croagnashallog, Derrydrud, and Drehidarone Bridges (5 miles), whence it is level to Cloghbagie Bridge; beyond which the new part commences, passing (7½ miles) Toome Lough and crossing (8½) the new Gweebarra Bridge, nearly a mile above the old Russell's Ferry. Hence another new bit of road (but rough for cycling) takes us in 2¾ miles into the road from Maas to Glenties at 3 miles from Glenties (an easy run). Carndonagh Hotels: O'Doherty's (C.T.); Canny's. Mail-cars leave for Derry (direct) abt. 6.30 a.m. and *3.30 p.m.; arr. from Derry abt. *9.30 a.m. and 6 p.m.; leave for Malin, abt. *9.40 a.m. *Sundays also; also for Malin and Culdaff 8.15 a.m., returning from Culdaff 4.40 and Malin 4.55. For Culdaff only at 10 a.m. and on to Malin Head 10.15. Pop., 720. Hire to Malin Head and back, 7s. 6d. to 9s. Public Car for Malin Head at 8.15 a.m., returning to meet 6.35 train. Rail to Buncrana (18 miles) and Derry (30). Carndonagh is a small town built cross-wise, its chief street forming a wide market-place, of which, as is not unusual, the potato-weigher, looking uncomfortably like a gallows, is the chief ornament. The inn accommodation is fair of its kind, and all tourists should halt here for the sake of enjoying on the following day the fine drive to Buncrana through the Gap of Mamore from Clonmany Station. There is a good view of Slieve Snaght from the town. The direct road to Buncrana (12½ miles, 13 miles to station; car, 7s. 6d.) rises to over 600 feet in the pass between Slieve Snaght and Bulbin in 5 miles. It traverses a wild heathy country and is only interesting for the views in front and behind, and the pretty Mintiaghs Loch, which lies ¼ to ½ mile right of the road, a mile beyond the col. Slieve Snaght (6 to 7 miles from Carndonagh) is easily climbed from the road. The mail-route to Derry (21 miles) passes to the east of Slieve Snaght, attains its col in (500 ft.) 6½ miles, and drops to the Moville and Derry road at Carrowkeel, 11 miles short of Derry ("Quigley's Point). Carndonagh to Clonmany, 7½ miles; Gap of Mamore, 14; Buncrana town, 22; Station, 22½. Car, 12s to 14s. This is a delightful day's drive in fine weather. It is best to take lunch either from Carndonagh or Clonmany, and eat it in the "Gap," from the highest point of which Mamore Hill (1,381 ft.) may be ascended in 20 to 30 minutes, and a capital view enjoyed from it. The road goes west out of Carndonagh and in half a mile comes to the church, opposite to which, at the corner of a lane, is a fine old Cross, with time-worn sculpture. Beyond the church we take the right-hand turn and pass Tirnaleague House, the residence of the landlord of the town, with an avenue of ash-trees. Proceeding, we have Binnion (818 ft.) in front, and the sandy Trawbreaga Bay with the so-called Doagh Isle on the right. At the northern extremity of the latter the old Castle of Carrickabraghy, an old stronghold of the O'Dohertys, is seen, and, beyond it, Malin Head with its sharp little peaks and white signal-station. The rocky little Glashedy Isle is also conspicuous. As far as Clonmany the new railway may be used, a convenient train starting at 11.35, and occupying about 20 minutes on the journey. The line sticks close to the road route. The only place of interest is Ballyliffin (6 miles), a slumberous group of houses, very depressing in appearance, until the railway came, and the eyes of the people were opened to the great possibilities they possessed in the splendid stretch of fine sand which fringes the three-mile-long crescent of Pullan Bay, from Binion to Carrickabraghy Castle, open to the broad Atlantic. On the hill above the station a small hotel has been built, and cars meet the trains. The place is in high favour with the Derry folk. At one time the village is said to have celebrated a kind of Donnybrook fair – "whiskey and fightin' for a week." Clonmany – called on the Ordnance Survey "Dunally" – is 1½ miles further, and very prettily placed in a hollow alongside a river of the same name (Clonmany). Innishowen Hotel. Free fishing (salmon, trout). Clonmany to Buncrana, 11 miles. The line follows the Clonmany river almost to its source (3 miles) and then descends by the side of Mintiagh's Loch to Drumfries, where the road joins the Carndonagh and Buncrana road 5 miles from Clonmany. Buncrana 12 miles from Londonderry by rail (2s., 1s. 3d., 10d). Tourist Tickets: From Dublin, 47s. 9d., 36s., 23s. 3d.; from Belfast, 22s., 17s. 4d., 13s. Hotels:- Lough Swilly (C.T.), a large first-class house standing by itself on the shore, ½ mile from station. Bedd and Att. from 3s. 6d.; Bkfst. (t.d'h), 2s. 6d.; Din., 3s. 6d. Free use of golf links. Swimming and medical baths attached by covered way. M'Connell's, fam. and comm., in village, ¾ mile, from station (scrupulously neat). Return Car Fares (4 pass.): Fahan Pier, 2s. 6d.; Mamore Gap and Dunree, 8s.; Carndonagh, 7s 6d.; Clonmany, 10s; Malin Head, 15s.; Moville, 15s. Pair-horse Wagonettes, double. Golf Links ("Lisfannan"), 1 mile from hotel, past station; (Ladies') 5 min. from Hotel. Good Bathing. P.O., open 7-8; Sun. 9-10. Desp. abt. 8.20 and 5; Sun. 4.40. Del. 7.40, 5.30. Tel. Off., 8-8; Sun. 8-10. Pop. abt. 800. Buncrana is in the parish of Lower Fahan ("Fawn"). The new Church is featureless. The old one is on the road to Dunree Fort. St. Mura is said to have "governed the Abbey at Upper (or South) Fahan with great success." Buncrana ("Mouth of the River Crana") is a pleasant, very presttily situated little watering-place with a cincture of cultivation and trees, all the more welcome for their contrast with the wild and barren country the tourist may have traversed along any of the routes from Carndonagh or Clonmany. Centuries ago, we are told, it was "a place of some importtance;" then it decayed, revived again in the last century, and latterly it has been galvanised into increased life and vigour by the construction of the convenient little narrow-gauge railway from Derry, which has made it the best halting-place for those who are including the Inishowen peninsula in their tour trough Donegal. Private lodgings may be had. Except just in the estuary of the two streams (Crana and Mill) the tide retires a very little way, and the shore is shingly. The town consists mainly of one wide street half a mile long, a little beyond the north end of which is the entrance to the Castle – a single tower that once formed part of a stronghold of the O'Dohertys. Adjoining it is a comparatively modern castle built in 1717 by Sir John Vaughan, who brought about the revival mentioned above. The Castle Grounds are open to visitors. At N. end of village turn down left to the entrance gate; then along drive to six-arched bridge close to which is the tower (above). then, passing through an iron gate a path leads to the shore, which may be followed over rough stones for ¼ mile to a new Fort. From the iron gate a sycamore avenue runs right. From the bridge an avenue leads up into the main road. The whole forms a pleasant hour's stroll. Buncrana to Portsalon, 4 miles rail or road to Fahan; ferry to Rathmullan; thence coach or steamer (Tues., Fri.). (In fair weather a saling or row boat may be taken down the lough, 9 miles.) Buncrana to Rathmullan (across Lough Swilly). The steam-ferry from Fahan Pier, 4 miles south of Buncrana crosses Lough Swilly to Rathmullan (3 miles; 4d.) five or six times a day in the summer. As, however, it always runs more in connection with trains from Derry than from Buncrana, tourists often hire or walk to Fahan Pier, a pleasant stroll past the golf-ground with the lough in view all the way; or take a boat direct from Buncrana to Rathmullan (3½ miles, 5s. with two men). |
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